• What a Home Inspector Does

A licensed home inspector conducts a visual examination of the accessible components of a home — they are not permitted to open walls, move furniture, or operate systems that are turned off. The inspection typically takes two to four hours depending on the home's size and age, and costs between $400 and $700 in most Canadian markets. You receive a written report, usually delivered within 24 hours, that documents every observed condition, deficiency, and maintenance recommendation.

Attend the inspection in person. Walking through the home with the inspector as they work gives you context for each finding that no written report fully conveys. You can ask questions on the spot and see firsthand which issues are minor and which are serious.

• Roof and Exterior

The inspector evaluates the roof covering material, approximate remaining life, and the condition of flashing, gutters, downspouts, and soffits. Missing or damaged shingles, lifted flashing around chimneys and skylights, and sagging ridgelines are all concerns that require follow-up. On the exterior they will check siding condition, grade and drainage (ground should slope away from the foundation), window and door frames, and visible foundation walls for cracks or staining.

• Foundation and Structure

Foundation inspection is one of the highest-stakes areas in any home assessment. The inspector will look for cracks in poured concrete or block foundations, signs of water infiltration such as staining, efflorescence (white mineral deposits), or active dampness, and evidence of settling or movement. Not all cracks are serious — hairline cracks from normal curing are common. Horizontal cracks, stair-step cracks in block foundations, or cracks with displacement are more concerning and may require a structural engineer's assessment before proceeding.

• Electrical System

The inspector checks the electrical panel type and capacity, the condition of visible wiring, the presence of GFCI protection in wet areas, and whether outlets are grounded. Older homes (pre-1970s) may have knob-and-tube or aluminum wiring, both of which many insurers refuse to cover without upgrades or charge higher premiums for. A 60-amp panel, common in homes from the 1960s and 1970s, is typically inadequate for modern electrical loads and will need upgrading. These are significant costs to factor into your offer.

• Plumbing

The inspector runs all faucets and showers, tests water pressure, flushes toilets, and checks the water heater for age and condition. They inspect accessible supply and drain pipes for corrosion, leaks, or improper materials. Lead pipes (present in some pre-1950s homes), galvanized steel (which corrodes internally over time), and polybutylene pipe (recalled due to failure rates) are all red flags. The water heater's age matters: most have a 10–15 year lifespan, and one that is beyond that range should be budgeted for replacement.

• HVAC: Heating, Ventilation, and Cooling

The inspector operates the heating and cooling systems, checks the furnace age and condition, inspects the heat exchanger (where accessible), evaluates ductwork, and looks for proper ventilation throughout the home. A furnace over 20 years old is near the end of its typical lifespan and should be budgeted for replacement regardless of its current operation. A cracked heat exchanger is a safety hazard — it allows combustion gases to mix with conditioned air — and is grounds for immediate replacement.

• Reading the Report and Deciding What Matters

Every inspection report contains a long list of items, most of which are maintenance recommendations rather than serious deficiencies. The key is distinguishing between what is expected for a home's age and what represents a genuine risk or major cost.

• Specialized Inspections Worth Considering

A general home inspection does not cover everything. If the property has a well and septic system, each requires a separate specialized inspection. Older homes (pre-1980s) may contain asbestos in insulation, floor tiles, or around pipes — an environmental inspection can identify this. Radon testing is increasingly recommended, particularly in certain regions of Canada where radon levels are naturally elevated. A chimney inspection is advisable for any home with a wood-burning fireplace or stove. These add a few hundred dollars each but cover risks a general inspection cannot.

• Using the Inspection to Negotiate

An inspection condition in your offer gives you the right to renegotiate or walk away based on the findings. Use it. For significant deficiencies, you have three realistic options: ask the seller to make the repair before closing, request a price reduction equal to the estimated repair cost, or accept the property as-is and budget for it yourself. In a balanced market, sellers will usually engage on genuinely significant items. In a hot market with multiple offers, that leverage diminishes — but the inspection still protects you by giving you the information you need to make an informed decision.

• Never Skip It on an Older Home

The pressure to waive inspection conditions has been real in competitive Canadian markets, and some buyers have done so successfully. But the risk is asymmetric: the upside of waiving is a slightly stronger offer; the downside is discovering a $30,000 foundation problem or a $15,000 electrical upgrade requirement after the deal has closed. On any home more than 15 to 20 years old, the inspection condition is worth more than the competitive edge you give up by including it.